It is heartening to realize that most of what a ferret does involves playful activity. Ferrets love to run, bounce and roll. They love to chase you and enjoy being chased by you. They need to expend all that energy they’ve been storing up by sleeping 15-20 hours per day. Just a note. Ferrets are sound sleepers and may sleep so soundly that it is alarming to you. If this behavior worries you have your veterinarian check the little guy out to make sure there is nothing wrong.

Part of a ferret’s fun is the pleasure he gets from hoarding things. As part of the natural nesting instinct he will steal and hide anything he can get a hold of. Let your ferret have his own set of “stuff” (make sure it is safe material) that he can hoard in his stash.

Ferrets are naturally curious of their surroundings. They are opportunists who will wait for an opportunity to slip through an open door and escape. They are oblivious to the dangers involved. Be constantly aware of this behavior and guard against his escape. The prospects for survival of a domesticated ferret in the outdoors is almost nil.

One of the most popular behaviors to teach your ferret relates to his instinct to nip (squeeze skin without breaking it).

Ferrets, when they play with one another, nip as part of their mock combat. This is not the same as biting. It is a means of communication between ferrets. Ferrets have thick skin so it doesn’t hurt their companions. Not so with humans whose skin is thin. Your ferret is simply playing with you and not trying to hurt you. It is important for you to take the time and trouble to teach him what acceptable behavior is. (Unless your ferret has been previously abused or is in pain actual biting should not be an issue.)

The best time to teach your ferret not to nip is as soon as you get him. This behavior will not go away or fix itself.

When training a ferret, positive reinforcement works better than negative. Praise and treats works better than punishment. The most important thing is consistency. Not only you, but everyone in the family must be consistent when training your pet ferret.

Nose flicking is a very common form of discipline while the ferret’s teeth are on you. There are other alternatives to try. You do not want your ferret to associate you with bad things.
– A stern word “no!”
– Gently pin the ferret down
– Confining him to his cage for a few minutes and ignoring him (time out)
– Coat your hands with bitter apple.

Be sure that you are not causing the nipping by disturbing a sleeping ferret or one that is eating. If you need to awaken your ferret, or lure him away from his food, try shaking a jingle toy or using a treat.

A well behaving ferret is a joy to all who play with him. Training your ferret is worth every minute of your effort.

A basic ferret cage is a one level affair made of wire mesh measuring around 3′ x 2′ x 2′. This is more than sufficient for one ferret and allows proper separation of feeding, sleeping and litter box areas.

Deluxe cages come in a number of different sizes and prices. Each one has its own set of special features that make it well suited for your ferret. Decide in advance of what features are most important to you and then shop them carefully on the internet to get the best price and availability.

Features that are offered by various cage manufactures that will improve your ferret’s enjoyment of his cage:
– Solid floors rather than wire mesh (hard on your ferret’s feet)
– Solid shelves
– Solid ladders
– Ramps and balconies
– Extra cage levels (must be laid out carefully to avoid the danger of falls)
– Wide doors with ferret-proof locks
– Climbing tubes or tunnels
– Hammocks

Talk to other ferret owners for their input on the pros and cons of a particular brand and model of cage. Considerations for you as owner are such things as ease of cleaning and general safety for your pet.

Once you have settled on a cage it is time to set up your ferret’s new home.

The cage should be laid out in zones. The first zone to consider is the litter box zone. The litter box should have one side that is lowered to allow your ferret to walk in and out with ease. The remaining sides should be taller to allow your ferret some privacy as he does his business. Use a non-clumping type of cat litter in the box. Tip: When you clean the litter box leave some of his droppings in the box to keep him from playing in it.

The second zone is the sleeping zone. Here is where you will place the sleep sack or hammock for your ferret. If you are using other bedding, such as old towels or clothes, provide a box to place it in. Secure the box to the cage to prevent it being moved by your furry friend.

The third zone is the eating zone. This should not be close to the litter box zone. Here is where a heavy bowl for his food and either another heavy bowl for water (or a water bottle) goes.

The balance of the cage will be the playing zone.

Your ferret’s home is a work in progress. Start out with a basic cage that is large enough and build from there. You can add accessories to the cage and treat your ferret to special occasions by purchasing additional bedding and toys. You may decide before long that two ferrets are better than one and purchase a larger cage that can house them both.

Final Note: Be sure to remember to place your ferret’s cage in a dry, draft-free environment, not too close to a window or in direct sunlight. Keep the room temperature below 80 degrees at all times. He will love you for it.

1- Bathing
Every week you should bathe your ferret. Your fuzzy friend can be bathed in the sink. If your ferret is comfortable with water the process is fairly easy. Wet your ferret by spraying or pouring water on him. Using a shampoo designed for ferrets or cats put a small dab on his upper back and lather up to his head and down to his tail. It is important to avoid getting the shampoo in his eyes or ears. Rinse him off and dry him with a towel.

If you ferret is afraid of water it becomes a little more complicated. Fill the sink with water and dip your friend in the water. Shampoo him as above. Dip him once again in the water and using your fingers, loosen the shampoo from his coat. Gently towel dry your friend.

If you notice that your ferret has a dry coat, you can apply a coat conditioner while he is still damp. Work the conditioner into his coat with your fingers.

2- Ear cleaning
Ferret ear care is important. It should be attended to once or twice per month. You can clear his ears of earwax and check for ear mites that might harm your furry friend. Have a friend hold your ferret by the scruff, properly supporting his body. Dip a cotton swab in an ear cleaning solution designed for cats and gently clean the ear starting with the outer ear. Use a dry swab to soak up extra liquid. Using a fresh swab, repeat the process on the other ear.

3- Nail trimming
Trimming your ferret’s nails will keep you from being scratched and protect him from snagging his nails on his bedding. Your ferret’s nails should be trimmed at least once per month. You can use regular fingernail clippers. With a friend holding your ferret, trim the nail up to about 1/8 of an inch from the quick. If you cannot clearly see the vein, do not cut lest you hurt your pet.

4- Brushing
To keep your pet ferret fresh between baths you can keep your friend smelling clean and fresh by brushing him. Use a soft or medium cat brush. Lightly sprinkle your ferret with baby powder. Brush him gently but thoroughly.

5- Dental care
Feeding your ferret dry foods will help your pet have clean, healthy teeth. You can take care of most tartar buildups by scraping his teeth with your fingernail. If you prefer, a cat toothbrush can be used. You should clean your ferret’s teeth at least once a week. When you take your ferret in to the veterinarian for his annual check up, have the vet do a though teeth cleaning which you can then maintain.

7- Fleas Ticks, Ear mites
Your pet ferret will appreciate your watch care over the potential for external parasites such as fleas, ticks and ear mites. If your ferret is an indoor pet and you have no other pets his risk is minimal of getting a parasite. If you detect any of these creatures, your best bet is to call your veterinarian for advice as to how to treat your pet.

The first choice of bedding to consider is a sleep or nap sack. It provides extra warmth when needed. A sleep sack lies on the ground of the cage. There is an opening for the ferret crawl into. Some sacks have only one opening while others have one on each end. When the ferret enters the sleep sack he is surrounded by warmth and ready to sleep.

The second choice of bedding is a ferret hammock. The hammock is secured to the walls of the cage and swings freely in mid air. It provides a partially surrounded space and a partially open space. This allows the heat-sensitive ferret to cool off. Hammocks come in various configurations: shapes, sizes, and lining. Some hammocks are large enough to sleep several ferrets at the same time, as they love to snuggle together when sleeping. Some hammocks are flat, others are boot shaped. Some attach to the walls of the cage, others have stands. Hammocks serve the additional purpose of being able to be used as a step up to help your ferret reach a higher cage level. This is a safety feature as well as it protects the ferret from a long fall.

As you consider purchasing a hammock or a sleep sack for your ferret, make sure that the material is machine-washable in order to prevent the spread of disease. A tightly woven fabric works the best. If over time the sleep sack or hammock begins to fray, remove it from the cage and repair/replace it. Once damaged, a sleep sack or hammock could be a danger to your ferret. Also, when purchasing a hammock make sure that the hardware is “ferret safe”.

Purchasing a hammock for your ferret is a win-win proposition. It provides a safe environment, puts less pressure on your ferret’s body, puts him in a natural sleeping position and helps separate the cage into sleeping and non-sleeping sections.

It is common sense to never let a new animal loose in your home unattended. It takes time for it to become familiar with its surroundings while in the cage before you consider letting your ferret free in your home. An important skill for your ferret to learn is how to use the litter box. Litter box training can take several hours per day for 2-3 months. It varies from ferret to ferret but most trained ferrets end up using the litter box about 75% of the time. Although there are ferrets who use the litter box every time, but with most you will occasionally find a “present” in the house. Your success in litter box training your ferret is directly proportionate to the amount of time you invest in it.

Start by allowing your ferret to run around a small room such as a bathroom. It is typical for a ferret to go within a few minutes of eating or awakening. When your ferret awakens, put him in the litter box. Don’t allow him to leave until he has relieved himself. When your ferret has successfully used the litter box immediately give him a treat. The trick is for him to associate going to the bathroom with a treat.

Ferrets do not respond well to physical punishment. As a result, do not punish them if they have an accident in the house. It will only serve to make them fear you and they will not make the connection between their bad behavior and the punishment. The price you pay for letting your ferret have freedom to run around the house is an occasional mess to clean up after them.

In preparation for your ferret to run free in the house you must take steps to “ferret proof” your house. By “ferret proofing” I mean taking steps to protect your ferret from harm. Ferrets are small and curious. They will explore small spaces. A guideline is if their head fits into a space, the rest of their body will as well. Start “ferret proofing” by exploring your house on your hands and knees looking for small holes. Check every room your ferret will have access to. Don’t neglect to check your appliances for holes and small crawl-able spaces. Ferrets are not only curious but very good climbers as well. Anything is a potential play area for your ferret. They may be able to crawl inside refrigerators, dryer tubing and vents. They can crawl under couches and up inside to the springs.

It is tempting to think that running around the house increases the amount of exercise your ferret will get. But, it is more important that your ferret is able to have a safe environment in which to run and play.

A guideline for purchasing food is to look for products that have:

- at least 35- 40% protein

- 18-30% fat

- 2% fiber

- contains 21 amino acid

- less than 7.0 % ash level

- good carbohydrate ingredients such as rice flower or brewer’s yeast.

Please take note that some ferret foods are made with poorly processed frozen fish, and your ferret will not eat it. Ferrets can be particular about their food even to the point of refusing to the point of starvation.

High quality ferret food, as a rule, costs more than higher quality cat food, but ferrets do not eat massive  amounts of the food, which brings down the overall cost. Ferrets that are fed with healthy diets do not need to take supplements.

Ferrets need to eat at least twice a day. This insures that they can gain the calories needed to sustain a healthy life. Ferrets, being small animals, require only small portions of food. When putting moist food out for your ferret it is good for only about 30-45 minutes and then should be removed. As an alternative, you might also want to consider feeding your ferrets a dry pellet diet.  Dry pellets last longer, so they can be left in the cage all day. They also help to clean the ferret’s teeth. Be sure if you are feeding your ferret a dry diet that he has fresh water available at all times. Ferrets prefer to drink from a dish rather than a water bottle. The water, whether in a dish or a water bottle, should be refreshed a few times per day to ensure purity.

Feeding your ferret treats, although not necessary, can be useful when you are teaching him new skills such as housebreaking. The best treats are cooked eggs and meats. Stay away from: fruits (as they are high in sugar), candy, dairy products (ice cream and milk), nuts and nut products. Nutritional problems such as malnutrition, obesity, tooth decay, diarrhea, intestinal blockage, insulinoma, and hypoglycemia are related to these bad snacks and can thus be avoided. Be reasonable in the number of treats you feed your ferret as too many may cause him to refuse his normal diet. Ferrets have difficulty digesting vegetables or grains, so steer clear of these. Warning: Onions are poisonous to ferrets.

Proper nutrition leads to a healthy life for your ferret. Your ferret will be happy and comfortable; and will have a reduced risk for serious and life-threatening illnesses.

Ferret owners as a group are known to shower a great amount of love and affection upon these furry friends. One of the best ways to show your ferret love is to provide them with a good and healthy diet.

While giving birth, the female ferret, known as a jill, should not be handled. Handling a birthing mother is dangerous to the babies and the mother may perceive handling as a threat and attack her handler.

It is common for a female ferret to give birth to a litter of seven or eight kits. The kits are born practically hairless and with a pink complexion. They are born blind. Their initial days consist of eating, sleeping and growing. After about three weeks the kit’s color darkens and their eyes begin to open. By six weeks they are ready to leave their mother. At seven weeks it is time for the ferret’s first series of vaccinations. This is also a good time to consider de-scenting and spaying/neutering.

It is important to wean a kit off their old diet. When you receive your new baby ferret, ask the breeder for the details of what they have been eating, including the brand of food. It is wise to start with the same brand of food. Soak the food in warm water for 5-10 minutes before offering it to the kit. If you wish to switch to another brand you must gradually mix the new brand with the old giving the kit time to adjust to the new brand. It was common a number of years ago to feed ferrets cat food, but now there are choices of high quality ferret food. The quality of food, particularly protein, is important for the kit. This is something that cat food does not offer. The nutritional mix should be 35% protein and 20% fat. Poultry fat is particularly suited for baby ferrets as is has a natural blend of essential fatty acids that are important for healthy growth and development. Water is a constant necessity and should be kept clean and pure. Change the water entirely at least once a day.

Baby ferrets thrive in large cages made specifically for ferrets. This way they are comfortable, safe and have plenty of space to play in. Plastic bottom cages are preferred as metal ones are prone to corrosion. Avoid cages with plastic-coated wire as this can be chewed through and swallowed by the kit. Baby ferrets like having places to hide. They enjoy soft bedding that they can burrow and sleep in. Regularly check the bedding to make sure the kit is not eating it – a fast ticket to the veterinarian.

Like all baby mammals, baby ferrets require both attention and love in large quantities. They are very active and need proper care in order for them to live a long and healthy life.

There are many choices in ferret cages so choose wisely. Does it have enough room for your ferret to run around in? Have you checked to make sure the cage bars are close enough together that he can’t stick his head through the bars? Are you sure there are no gaps in the flooring that your ferret’s feet might get caught in and injured? Is the cage bottom plastic and easy to clean? Does the cage have multiple layers and large doors (to make it easy for your ferret to get in and out)? Is there plastic coated metal in the cage? (Avoid this as the ferret may chew the plastic coating off with the result being a major medical issue – intestinal blockage)

Your ferret will spend a lot of time sleeping (15-20 hours per day) so soft bedding is an important consideration. Also the investment in a sleeping sack or hammock will increase your ferret’s comfort and enjoyment of his home.

Two hours every day your ferret needs to be outside of his cage. Take thought as to how to ferret-proof a room for him to explore.

Toys will enhance your ferret experience. Like small children, care must be taken in the selection of toys. They need to be durable and not easily destroyed. Cat toys work well for ferrets. Never leave toys in the ferret’s cage unsupervised. There is always the risk that your ferret will damage a toy and eat a piece that will be harmful to him.

Ferrets, as part of the Mustelid family, share many characteristics of weasels and otters. They have an identifying odor that can be removed my have your veterinarian de-scent them. Often you can schedule the de-scenting along with the spaying and neutering. If this procedure is performed it is important to carefully follow the vet’s post-surgical instructions to ensure full recovery. Also, your ferret needs regular checkups and vaccinations. It is common for your ferret to have already received his first series of shots, so make certain you know what and when so you can continue the series of distemper shots. After the initial shots, your ferret will only need an annual follow-up shot.

Provide well for your ferret’s food and water needs in his cage. High quality cat food or specially designed ferret food work well. Ask about the brand of food your ferret was eating prior to bringing him home and stick with it. In order to switch brands you will need to mix the new with the old and gradually increase the portion of the new brand until you totally replace the old. Snacks and treats for ferrets need to be carefully planned using foods such as cooked eggs and meat – sugary treats can be harmful.

Bringing your new furry friend home takes a lot of planning and preparation, but will be worth it as it will ensure both a safe and healthy environment for your ferret.